Lisbon & Porto Hidden Gems
Freeby Sébastien Couix
20 Spots
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
The highest viewpoint in Lisbon and far calmer than Portas do Sol: the whole city, the castle and the Tagus laid out below you. Bring a bottle of vinho verde from a Graça minimercado and grab a spot on the wall before sunset.
Miradouro de Santa Luzia
Bougainvillea pergola, azulejo panels of old Lisbon and red Alfama rooftops tumbling toward the river. Come early morning before tram 28 crowds arrive, then get lost downhill in Alfama's alleys.
Taberna da Rua das Flores
Tiny chalkboard-menu taberna in Chiado reinventing Portuguese petiscos: think tuna tartare, pica-pau and seasonal fish, nothing over 20 euros. No reservations and cash only, so put your name down at opening and wait over a glass at the bar.
O Velho Eurico
A decades-old Mouraria tasca revived as Lisbon's most buzzing neo-tasca: classic dishes with clever twists, paper tablecloths and a loud, joyful room. Tables book out weeks ahead; otherwise arrive before opening and leave your name.
Manteigaria
Many locals' pick for the best pastel de nata in town: they bake only natas, all day, and ring a bell when a fresh tray comes out. Eat it standing at the counter, still warm, with cinnamon and a bica.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo
Five centuries of Portuguese tiles inside a former convent, including a 23-meter panorama of pre-earthquake Lisbon and a jaw-dropping gilded chapel. It's out of the center, so few tourists make it; the café in the tiled kitchen courtyard is a bonus.
Black Sheep Lisboa
One of Lisbon's smallest wine bars, pouring only natural, organic and low-intervention wines from small Portuguese producers. Tell the staff what you like and let them pick; spill out onto leafy Praça das Flores with a plate of cheese.
Casa do Alentejo
Behind an anonymous door on touristy Portas de Santo Antão hides a 17th-century palace with a Moorish courtyard and tiled dining halls. Go up for Alentejo classics like migas or carne de porco à alentejana, or just a drink in the courtyard.
Cervejaria Ramiro
Lisbon's legendary seafood beer hall: tiger prawns, garlic clams, percebes and giant crab, then a prego steak sandwich for dessert, as tradition demands. No reservations; take a number and the line moves fast outside peak hours.
Feira da Ladra & São Vicente
Lisbon's flea market sprawls around Campo de Santa Clara every Tuesday and Saturday: vintage azulejos, old postcards and pure junk. Pair it with the tiled cloisters of São Vicente de Fora next door and the rooftop view from its terrace.
Taberna Santo António
Family-run since 1989 on a quiet Miragaia lane, with mum in the kitchen and huge portions of Porto home cooking at tiny prices. Order the daily grilled fish or tripas à moda do Porto; closed Mondays.
Miradouro da Vitória
A scruffy little terrace in the old Jewish quarter with one of Porto's best views over Sé cathedral, the Ribeira rooftops and the Gaia port cellars. Almost nobody's there, even at golden hour.
Jardim do Morro
The grassy hill across the Dom Luís I bridge in Gaia, where locals sprawl with beers at sunset as the Ribeira glows orange. Walk the bridge's upper deck to get there, then climb to Serra do Pilar monastery for the higher view.
Capela das Almas
A small chapel wrapped entirely in blue-and-white azulejos showing the lives of Saint Francis and Saint Catherine. Shoot it from the Rua Fernandes Tomás corner in the morning when the light hits the tiles.
Igreja do Carmo
The side wall of this baroque church is one giant azulejo panel, one of the most photographed in Porto. Look for the 1-meter-wide 'hidden house' squeezed between Carmo and the Carmelitas church next door; you can visit inside.
Prova
Porto's most electric wine bar, where winemakers and sommeliers hang out: natural and small-producer Portuguese bottles, great cheese and charcuterie boards. Ask for something from the Douro or Vinho Verde you've never heard of. Closed Tue-Wed.
Casa Guedes
The pork sandwich institution: slow-roasted pernil piled into a bun, best ordered 'com queijo da serra' with gooey mountain cheese. Grab a stool outside on Praça dos Poveiros with a cold beer.
Confeitaria do Bolhão
Old-school pastelaria since 1896 with tiled walls and a mile-long glass counter. Get a bola de Berlim or a pastel de nata and a galão, standing at the counter like the regulars; the Bolhão market is across the street.
Café Santiago
Where Porto people send you for the real francesinha: a monster sandwich of meats smothered in melted cheese and beer-tomato sauce, with fries. Share one unless you're starving; expect a line at peak dinner.
Foz do Douro & Passeio Alegre
Porto's breezy seaside neighborhood where the Douro meets the Atlantic: palm-lined Passeio Alegre garden, lighthouse pier and old fishermen's streets. Take historic tram 1 along the river from Infante and stay for sunset on the beach bars.